In the heart of Barbagia, in the province of Nuoro, the village of Mamoiada preserves one of the most striking masked traditions in the Mediterranean. Every year, between January and Carnival, the Mamuthones and the Issohadores parade through its streets: archaic, silent, solemn figures who, with their measured step and the din of their cowbells, turn the space of the village into a ritual space.
The Mamuthones
The Mamuthone is a figure that strikes first of all by its dark, heavy appearance.
- The mask, called the visera, is carved in wood and painted black. It has strong features, often stern or sorrowful, and covers the whole face.
- The headdress is a dark kerchief knotted under the chin, framing the mask.
- The costume is made of black sheepskins, the mastruche, worn over velvet clothes.
- The cowbells, called carriga, are a large set of livestock bells strapped to the back with leather belts. Their weight is considerable and makes the step laborious.
- Smaller bells hang on the chest as well.
The black face, the animal skins and the sound of the cowbells make the Mamuthone a presence halfway between the human and the beast.
The Issohadores
Alongside the Mamuthones move the Issohadores, whose appearance is completely different.
- They wear a red jacket, white trousers and a colourful shawl knotted at the waist.
- They wear a white mask with regular human features, or in some cases go bare-faced.
- On their heads they wear a traditional cap.
- Above all, they hold a rush rope, the soha, from which they take their name.
With the rope the Issohadores "catch" members of the public, women in particular, throwing the noose with skill. Being caught is considered a good omen, and whoever is caught often buys a drink.
The parade
The parade follows a precise order. The Mamuthones advance in two parallel rows, with the Issohadores at the sides and in front, as guides and guardians.
The Mamuthones' step is the heart of the rite. They move in unison, with small rhythmic jumps and a twist of the torso that makes all the cowbells ring at once. The result is a deep, rhythmic sound that recalls a passing herd. At regular intervals the group makes bigger leaps, accompanied by a sudden crash of sound.
The Mamuthones do not speak, do not laugh, do not interact with the public. This silent solemnity sets them apart from more playful carnival masks.
The calendar
The Mamuthones' first outing takes place on 17 January, for the feast of Saint Anthony the Abbot, when ritual bonfires are lit in Mamoiada. They then parade again during Carnival, especially on Sunday and Shrove Tuesday.
The link with Saint Anthony and his fires places the parade within the cycle of midwinter rites common to many agro-pastoral cultures.
Theories of origin
The origin of the Mamuthones is debated, and no theory has been definitively proven. The main readings proposed are:
- An agrarian and pastoral rite, tied to the cycle of the seasons and the fertility of land and livestock.
- A representation of the relationship between humans and animals, in which the Issohadores tame the Mamuthones as beasts are tamed.
- The memory of a victory by local shepherds over foreign invaders, captured and led in procession.
- A rite of passage marking the end of winter and the return of light.
What can be said with certainty is that the tradition is very old and belongs to a family of archaic masks found in Sardinia and in other parts of Europe.
The other masks of Sardinia
Mamoiada is not an isolated case. In central Sardinia there are other masks with similar features:
| Mask | Village | Main traits |
|---|---|---|
| Boes and Merdules | Ottana | Ox masks and the human figures who lead them |
| Thurpos | Orotelli | Hooded figures with blackened faces |
| Su Bundu | Orani | Wooden mask with horns and bovine features |
All share the theme of the relationship between human and animal, tamer and tamed.
The mask museum
Mamoiada is home to the Museum of Mediterranean Masks, which alongside the Mamuthones and Issohadores presents traditional masks from other areas of the Mediterranean and Europe. The comparison shows how widespread the theme of the animal mask and the cowbell is in the rural cultures of the continent.
In short
- The Mamuthones of Mamoiada wear black masks, sheepskins and heavy cowbells.
- The Issohadores, in red jackets, lead the procession and catch the public with their rope.
- The first outing is on 17 January, for Saint Anthony the Abbot, and they return at Carnival.
- The origin is debated: agrarian rite, human-animal relationship or historical memory.
- Ottana, Orotelli and Orani have similar masks, tied to the same agro-pastoral world.
